Full run down on which electric unicycle is best for you. The wheel you choose Is not the same for everyone, its different for every person, so sit down, grab a cuppa and answer these questions if you are in the market for a new wheel. We have covered as many points as possible.
Which Electric Unicycle is best for me?
Which Electric Unicycle is best for me?
Where am I?
In Electric People you can ask and answer questions and share your experience with others!
as a beginner it is difficult to answer. Test driving is also not possible. I was recommended the ninebot 10. I was not advised to take a beginner bike because I want something better later. I chose the KS-18L and I regret that decision. the bike is still too big and too heavy for me. the large range is of no use to me since I have been driving a maximum of 5 km for two months. In addition, I do not drive faster than 20 km / h. I should have taken the inmotion V5F and if that's not enough anymore you can buy a bigger one. I am even considering buying a smaller, light bike.
Why were you recommend the Z10? On what information was it recommended?
at scooterhelden.de there is a questionnaire to get a recommendation for the right EUC. I said: 12 km a day, a gradient of 12%, dirt road and small pieces of cobblestone.
Yeah sounds like you could have gone with something different. The video above though covers all that to help narrow it down.
I have dealt with the guys from Scooterhelden before and they where very helpfull but its like Ian is saying its not easy to find a wheel if you cannot try it out before. Its even more difficult if you have not ridden before to choose a wheel. I have done all my learning and also allot of off road riding on a Ninebot One E+, not made for offroading but that is all I was used to and its worked. It was such a good wheel for me to learn on. But then again it was the only wheel I had access too. Only after two years I moved to a 18inch mSuper and that was so much better off road. If I was a new rider I would have loved to start learning on a Kingsong KS16X. Its got all bits to make it a great wheel and you can grow with it as your skill grows.
But then this is only my opinion. Hope you find the wheel that fits you.
Today it looks very different. Now I love the KS18L even though I have only driven 500 km in total. I also ride off-road with it, which is much easier than I thought. Driving 40 km / h is no longer a problem. It's a shame that you can't legally drive it in Germany.
I am off to Germany the end of Aug and going to take my wheel with like I do every year. I keep to the back roads and forests. Enjoy your new wheel and safe riding.
I was watching one of your videos from 4 years ago or so, on a Ninebot One E+. This wheel tops out at about 12mph, with a realistic range of 10miles or so. What is clear at the time you considered 12mph to be quick. As a novice so do I. 10 miles on a wheel as novice will wear you out. Well it does me. Its interesting comparing videos you have made now with years of experience and more capable wheels and those of that era. Correct me if I'm wrong but it really looks like those Ninebots honed your skills. Tight turns, hops, riding backwards and all on a wheel that didn't kill you when you came off, was light, nimble and in today's market cheap. I have the Kingsong 16X and a Ninebot One E+, I like them both, but the E+ has a lot more to teach me yet, before I put it away and I may not even then.
So very true, I also found that even today the E+ or the C+ still rides like todays wheels. Super responsive and built like a tank. You cannot go wrong with good design.
Robin, absolutely. It was fast really, mainly due to its upper speed limit (and cut out point!), it would be worth reading this article I published couple of days ago.
What happened from there out was wheels became more powerful, and at that point you had to start thinking about getting some armour and protective hit on for sure (prior that it was a bit over kill wearing full armour and full head helmets etc), once this happened its as though you could push it a little more (and in reality you can due to being able to take a tarmac impact at a little more force and survive...but not 35mph like some seem to think!).
Now slow / low powered wheels as a starting point - absolutely an advocate for this. I take the same approach as motorcycle trials - the slow riding and up and over stuff teaches balance, throttle and clutch control and timing, all critical. If I ride a motox bike I can take to it like a duck to water despite hardly ever riding one as all the foundation and import aspects are drummed in over years of riding.
100% all for figure of 8 slow speed, tight turn riding on all terrains as a cornerstone to a good rider.